Leatherworking combines creativity and functionality, offering endless opportunities to customise items like wallets, bags, and accessories. Whether adding decorative edges, strengthening seams, or making unique patterns, learning to lace leather can elevate your projects. This guide will help you start your journey, covering essential supplies, basic stitches, advanced techniques, and handy tips for professional results. Let's get started!

What Is Leather Lacing? Benefits and Uses for Your Leather Projects

Lacing leather is a versatile technique for assembling and enhancing leather goods. Unlike traditional stitching, lacing uses leather strips threaded through pre-punched holes. The result is both strong and visually appealing.

Leather lacing is perfect for making belts, handbags, bracelets, and shoes. It's a practical choice for reinforcing seams and adding an artistic touch. Whether you prefer a classic or modern style, laced leather designs offer endless possibilities.

Must-Have Tools for Lacing Leather: From Needles to Hole Punches

Before you begin, gather the right tools. The right supplies make your work easier and ensure your projects look polished.

1. Choosing the Right Leather Lacing Needles for Precision and Ease

Threading lace through tight holes can be tricky, but lacing needles make the job much easier. Initially, the lace is stiff enough to pass through on its own. However, after several passes, it softens and becomes harder to push through, like trying to get a piece of string through the fabric without a needle.   Here are some common needle types:

• Two-Prong Needle: Affordable and durable, this is great for flat laces measuring 3/32" or 1/8". The prongs grip the lace securely, making it easier to work through holes.  
  
• Hook and Eye Needle: This needle, designed for single use, works well with 3/32" laces and features a simple hook mechanism to secure the lace.  
  
• Life Eye Needle: Made from brass, these reusable needles are a favourite among leatherworkers. They are available in different sizes to suit various lace widths, from 3/32" to heavier-duty laces.  

These needles prevent fraying and make lacing more efficient. A good-quality needle can save you time and frustration.

2. Types of Leather Lacing: Cowhide, Kangaroo, Deerskin, and More

The type of lace you pick depends on the project. Here are some popular options:

• Cowhide Lace: Affordable and smooth, ideal for jewellery or other leather items.  
  
• Kangaroo Lace: Known for strength and durability, it is perfect for long-lasting designs.  
  
• Deerskin Lace: Soft and flexible, great for decorative purposes.  
  
• Latigo Lace: Durable and weather-resistant, making it suitable for outdoor gear.  

Choose your laces based on the look and function you want.

3. Cutting & Punching Tools for Leather Lacing Projects

Clean cuts and evenly spaced holes are the foundation of quality lacing. Use sharp scissors or blades to cut your leather. Leather punches and chisels work best for punching holes. For more precision, consider tools like stitching chisels for consistent spacing or a wing divider for evenly marked holes.

Other helpful tools include:

• Stitching Pony: Holds leather securely while you lace.  
  
• Edge Groover: Creates recessed lines to protect stitches.  
  
• Hole Punches: Ensures clean, precise holes.  

Basic Leather Lacing Stitches Every Beginner Should Learn

Understanding a few basic stitches will help you create sturdy and attractive designs. Here are some beginner-friendly options:

1. Running Stitch: A Simple Leather Lacing Technique

The running stitch is simple and strong, making it an excellent choice for basic seams. It involves threading the lace through evenly spaced holes in a straight line. Keep the tension consistent for a clean, smooth finish.

Running stitch PDF

2. Whip Stitch: Decorative Leather Lacing for Edges and Seams

This stitch covers the edge of your leather, creating a neat border. It's commonly used for wallets, belts, and bags. The whip stitch combines functionality with a decorative element. Keep your spacing even for the best results.

Whip Stitch

3. Double Loop Stitch: Strong and Stylish Leather Lacing

The double-loop stitch is both durable and decorative. It's ideal for joining two leather pieces securely while adding a detailed design. Loop the lace twice through each hole for extra strength and an eye-catching finish.

Double Loop Stitch

4. Saddle Stitch with Leather Lacing: Durable and Clean Finish

Although more commonly associated with sewing, the saddle stitch can also be applied to lacing. It's great for joining pieces and provides a professional look. Ensure each loop is tight for clean, strong seams.

How to Prepare Leather for Lacing: Cleaning, Marking, and Punching

Clean and Condition Leather Before Lacing

Before starting, clean and condition your leather. Treating it with a quality leather conditioner will keep it soft and prevent cracking. This step makes the lacing process smoother and extends the life of your project.

How to Mark and Punch Even Holes for Leather Lacing

Mark hole positions using a ruler or wing divider for even spacing. Punch the holes using a leather punch or chisel. Precise holes are essential for a neat finish.

Advanced Leather Lacing Techniques: Braiding, Cross Stitches & Decorative Knots

Once you've mastered the basics, try these advanced techniques to add more flair to your work.

Braiding Leather Lacing with Kangaroo or Cowhide Lace

Braided laces add texture and strength to your designs. You can use three, four, or even seven strands depending on your desired effect. Braiding works well for straps, handles, or decorative accents.

Adding Decorative Knots to Your Leather Lacing Designs

Incorporate knots like the Turk's Head or diamond weave for a unique touch. These designs are great for straps, belts, or decorative embellishments. Experimenting with different weaves can make your projects stand out.

Cross Stitching for Bold, Decorative Leather Projects

Cross-stitching creates bold, eye-catching patterns. This technique is ideal for adding depth to leather accessories or décor. Whether for functionality or decoration, cross-stitching offers a striking finish.

Tips to Make Your Leather Lacing Projects Last Longer

Apply a small amount of glue to secure layers or double up laces for added strength. Reinforcing the ends of your laces ensures they stay in place and keep the design intact over time.

Edge Lacing Techniques: Strengthen and Decorate Leather Edges

Edge lacing protects and reinforces the sides of your leather items. Techniques like Spanish edge lacing add durability and give your piece a polished look.

Start Your Leather Lacing Journey: Practice, Create, and Experiment

Lacing leather is a rewarding skill that lets you personalise everything from fashion items to home décor. The possibilities are endless, whether you're creating a one-of-a-kind bag, crafting durable belts, or experimenting with intricate patterns. If you're looking for genuine off-cuts, explore full-grain leather scraps available in various colours—this ideal mix might spark ideas for your upcoming leather lacing project.

Take your time, practise, and don't be afraid to try new techniques. With the right tools and patience, you'll bring your creative visions to life quickly.